Montenegro and Sarajevo

My travels continue to take me to beautiful places, as well as places that have been ripe with chaos and violence in the past 15 years. My most recent travels have taken me to Bosnia, to the cities of Mostar and Sarajevo, both of which were nearly physically destroyed during the clashes with the Serbs of the early 1990's. When you arrive into Sarajevo on the bus, you pass through Yugoslav era apartment complexes that have bullet holes and mortar shells covering the outer walls. And as you drive further into town you will see it on nearly every building, house, hotel, apartment. Many of the nicest, historical buildings have been remodeled, but homes and apartment buildings still bare the scars of the recent war that killed 11000 Bosnians. I visited a museum a little bit out of town, called the Tunnel museum. It sits on the sight of where the Bosnians built an 800 meter tunnel under the airport as a way of supplying food, medicine oil and other supplies to their people. This helped hold of the Serbs, who had control of nearly all the surrounding hills, until NATO stepped in.
It is a very confusing mess of religions and cultures on the Balkans, but basically I think Serbia was trying to claim land in Bosnia because much of the land was populated with Bosnian Serbs. They ended up with many of the Yugoslav weapons after the break up. But to claim such land they had to slaughter a lot of innocent people and a lot of Muslims as well. As for Serbia and Kosovo I did a little reading to figure out that issue, and it basically goes like this. During ww2 the US and Serbia weer Allies. When the war ended Albania turned into a communist dictatorship, so many of the people fled to nearby Kosovo, which is in southern Serbia. The Albanian way is to reproduce young and reproduce often, so with in 40 years they made up 90% of the population in Kosovo. They must of drove out a bunch of Serbs too. So soon Kosovo was claiming Independence since they were ethnically so Albanian. But Serbia was against that because Kosovo was the heart of Orthodox Serbia for the past 1500 years. The conflict seemed to get bigger and bigger, I'm sure with both sides doing some terrible things to each other. It is easy to look up online and read about some of the atrocities the Serbs did to the Albanians.
Presently Kosovo is recognized by some states as Independent and not by others. From my visit there I was curious about where everyone gets their income. since I read there is 50% unemployment and most people drive very nice cars and all seem young. I discovered that the US alone gives Kosovo, which is the size of Los Angeles, 350 million dollars in 2008. I can understand Serbia's opinion of the US and other foreign countries. They would like them to stay out of their business and let them fight for what they think is theirs. they want to preserve their culture and strengthen their peoples, but it seems they go about doing so in a very violent way. OK enough for today's history lesson.


Tunnel Museum.

The recent violence and scarred buildings hasn't seemed to put a damper on the spirit of Sarajevo though. The cafes and cobblestone streets are full of tourists in the day, and as evening approaches the locals appear and fill up every seat of every cafe sipping strong coffee's in preparation for the summer nights festivities.

Before Bosnia, I was in the mountains of Montenegor, in the stunning Durmitor National Park. I stayed in a small mountain town at a campsite costing 3 euros a night and an owner who enjoyed drinking beer and listening to American rap music, especially the Wu Tang clan, pretty unique for a middle aged MonteNegran.
I did some trekking their, climbing up to the highest point in the park, 2523 meters. But this was no nature walk through the woods. The trail winds it way through the trees, to the tree line at 1600 meters, then up through green valleys full of wildflowers of virtually every size and color. Blues, reds, yellows, etc. Beyond the valleys the trail starts to climb through a couple snowfields and up step limestone rock, which is usually pretty strong, but when its loose and crumbly it can be a little slippery. I would rate this trail on the Pakistan scale. it was not easy. It would have been nice to have a pair of boots, but all I have are my Chacos.
The hike took 8 hours on a hot day, but the views and scenery were amazing. I hiked with some Check guys who I bumped into again in Sarajevo who offered me a place to stay in Prauge, so that was a bonus too.


Durmitor National Park, Montenegro.

Tomorrow I am going to the Croatian coast. it is a place that has been on my must see travel list for some time. But I have my doubts about visiting at this time. It is peak-peak, the prices will be high, the beaches busy, the campgrounds full. I have coming up with a strategy of visiting the islands in the Adriatic and trying to stay at nudist camps. i figure they will have fun people, be secluded and hopefully have a place to pitch a tent( pun intended, no pun intended, I'm not sure.)

Busy, busy, busy

Once again I'm way behind in updating this little travel blog. But my excuse is that I have just been too busy. In the sense that busy is a synonym for lazy. Here is a little collection of the things that have been occupying my precious time and keeping be "busy."
In Bulgaria I was too bust staring at the topless girls on the shores of the Black sea. Also In Bulgaria I was too busy getting on a train going the wrong direction...at midnight. I probably could have been a little more thorough and figured it out, but who expects 2 trains to show up at the same time at midnight at a small station in the middle of Gypseyland, Bulgaria.
I have also been too busy forgetting my Ipod at hostels. Twice I have been at the train/bus station and realized I left it back at the hostel, which is miles away, but each time I have been able to hop on the public transport and grab it in just few minutes. I'm an idiot for doing it twice, but also lucky to get int back both times. Any time you loose an ipod its devastating, trust me Ive done it like 4 times. I have also been too busy inhaling second hand smoke. Everyone is a chimney over here, pregnant women, kids, it really doesn't matter. The smokes are super cheap, along with the beers, and most people sit around at cafes all morning, day and night enjoying a puff and a drink.
In Romania I was very busy climbing the highest mountain in the country, 2544 meters. But it's a climb. You start out at 500 meters. And I started 1 day after it had poured for 3 straight days, so there were some river crossings that were a little intense and a few times when the trail was gone completely. Luckily all I had was my Chaco sandals, so that was convenient in all the wetness. The Romania mountains have a great trail and hut system, so getting around was easy, as well as finding a place to say, even though I didn't have a tent at the time. It was a beautiful walk, it took 3 days. I stayed at 2 different locations. The second night I slept out under the starts next to a beautiful alpine lake. And the weather had cleared so I had 3 days of sun. So far Romania is my favorite place, some of the villages in the countryside are classic looking, with old houses with red tile roofs and cobblestone streets. They have really fixed the place up in the past 20 years since the fall of communism.
The last few days I have been busy sleeping at bus and train stations. My travel hasn't been the smoothest, a couple times I've finished 1 bus/train journey at 2am, only to find out the connecting route doesn't leave for 4 or 5 hours. I'm not going to find a hotel for that short amount of time, so I just roll out the sleeping bag and find a bench with the least amount of drunk Romanian weirdos around and catch a few winks! Ahh the joys of travel when you're as cheap as me!
I have been in Kosovo for the past couple of days. It's in the southern section of Serbia. It is a disputed area, like much of the old Yugoslavia and the Balkans. most of the people are Albanian, like 90%. There are still a bunch of soldiers here from NATO. I was looking for some American soldiers so I could ask them for a can of chew, but unfortunately i couldn't find any. In my couple days there I did notice that almost all the buildings are 10 years old or younger, because the old ones were bombed my Serbia. I also noticed the road names. For example, if you wanted to five someone directions in Kosovo you could say. "Walk 3 blocks down Bil Klinton Ave, then hang a right on Robert Dole street." They really hold the Yanks in high regard for helping them out.
Like much of the rest of Serbia and Eastern Europe the main past times in the summer seem to be drinking coffee and beer, smoking cigarettes and sitting in street side cafes. The ladies get all dressed up, lots of make up,nice clothes everyday and strut around town, and the guys seem to do the same thing. It all seems to be a big pose fest. One thing that's funny, at all these posh cafes and bars, they don't watch sports on the TV, they watch the fashion channel. That should only be allowed in Paris and Italy in my opinion.
I visited Belgrade, Serbia and I was too busy visiting underground bars, partying on floating clubs on the Danube river with a group of cool Aussies who gifted me a tent, which I'm super grateful for. I'm using it tonight in Montenegro. Belgrade was a cool city, not gorgeous, but the people were great.
A few other things that have kept me busy have been:
Thinking I may have contracted Giardia in Pakistan, but i think I'm past that.
Trying to figure out what's wrong with my email, it keeps sending out bogus emails to everyone in my address book.
been trying to get some couch surfing organized, but haven't had any luck so far.
Drinking cheap Machiatos in some of the numerous cafes.

Currently I'm in Montenegro, I think it's one of the newest countries in the world. I'm in the mountains, about 4 hours from the Adriatic sea. There is really nice national park up here so I'm doing a little camping with my new tent and some more hiking. I like to break it up, not just visit city after city, looking at church after church. I'll be heading over to the coast for a few days after this, And up through Bosnia and Croatia. I'll try and update this thing a little more ofter, it's pretty easy when all the hostels have free internet! I'm off to find some dinner, more than likely a large piece of meet with a couple tomatos and a piece of salty bread. Mmmmmm, delicious, and I'll was it down with a 50 cent beer.

Some recent ramblıngs

Here ıs a general feel of what is been goıng through my head for the past week or so. I fınally left Pakistan, I am now ın Europe...barely. The current location ıs Istanbul. I have been seeing the sıghts, lots of old mosques that all seem about 400 years old. they are huge and beautıful and everywhere. They domınate the cıty skyline ın all dırectıons. The Mınarets on all 4 corners shoot skyward for hundreds of feet, lookıng lıke rockets. Istanbul ıs a great cıty to walk around. It ıs all pretty flat, wıth good access to the sea, whıch ıs nıce to see after 6 months of beıng land locked. It seems lıke you fınd a new cobblestoned street around every corner lıned wıth cafes and men tryıng to pull you ınto theır shop. Lots of tea shops. Lots of classıcaly dressed women wıth scarves over theır heads and overcoats, even ın thıs heat. Lots of men catchıng small fısh ın the Marmara sea.

It seems lıke every tıme I cross a country border I get a lıttle sıck. Wıth all the travel. Bad food and lack of sleep. Thıs was no exceptıon. I actually moved up my tıcket and left Pakıstan 2 days early whıch was a great decısıon. But I dıd some math and I fıgured out that I got 3 hours sleep ın 40 hours. I had to get to the İslamabad aırport at 230 am. I got maybe 20 mınutes sleep on the flıght because I was lıke a lıttle kıd watchıng all the tv shows, movıes and musıc that were on my personnal TV screen on my Qatar aırlınes flıght. Then on my 4 hour layover ın Qatar I went and got a coffee, and sınce Ive barely drank any coffee ın the past 6 months ıt had me wıred. My body was a zombıe, but my mınd was racıng. I trıed to sleep but ı just lıed there. I was happy everything went smooth, no hassles at any of the aırports, I collected my bag and went to fınd a hostel.
The fırst couple days were the sıght seeıng days. There is alot to see, palaces, museums, etc but they're all expensıve, at least to some one who has been spendıng 7 dollars a day for the past 6 weeks. A lot of the attractıons are beautıful and super hıstorıc, but they all cost lıke 20 lıra-14 dollars. I just cant fork over that type of cash for another museum. I know I'm cheap but Id rather get great experience by meetıng some local people.

Whıch leads me to my next plan. sıgned up for couch surfıng today. It seems lıke ın Europe ıt a great thıng to do. Free accommodation, local knowledge, new experıences. I thınk the hostel thıng ıs cool, but you lımıt you possıbıtıes to seeıng the tourıst sıghts and meetıng the same type of people most of the tıme. Tangent comıng...the travelers ın Asıa are way more ınterestıng, as far as travel experıences go. So far Ive met mostly young kıds wıth rıch famılıes. They all seem to be vıstıtıng theır familıes ın Italy or Zurıch after a couple weeks ın Istanbul. So that is how the other half vacatıons. I thought campıng at Chelan wıth the fam. was cool. But Villas ın Europe don't sound too bad.

Watched the Roddıck-Federer fınal yesterday. I watched every poınt actually. I was one of the only people cheerıng for Roddıck ın the bar. The other guy was a drunk Scotsman on leave from Afghanıstan. All the euros were pullıng for Federer. What a match. Fed. seems unbeatable. Does the guy ever make a mıstake? Borıs Becker was doıng the commentary over here and he makes Erıc Dıckerson on MNF look lıke Howard Cosell. They showed a shot of Federer's wıfe and Becker says, (She seems to be breathıng very heavıly). I just used parentheses because Turkısh keyboards don't use quotes.

In a few hours I'm leavıng for Bulgarıa, headed to the Black Sea coast, then up to Romanıa, hopefully surfıng some couches.

Time to move on

The time has come, I have drank my last cup of chai,ridden my last dilapitaded bus on a dilapidated road and answered the requisite 5 questions of ant traveler in these lands. (Which country? Are you alone? Are you Muslim? where are you staying? and can I have your watch?) I am back down in Islamabad,and to my mothers relief,shortly I will be headed to the airport to catch a flight to Istanbul and "safe" places.(I'll probably get mugged in the first 3 days,while in Pakistan you're more likely to be invited over for tea and dinner.
The last couple weeks I have been bumping and jostling my way over the rough roads of the north,over the Shandoor pass to Chitral and surrounding valleys. Wherein 12 days saw as many foreigners as snow leopards...0. I have ridden in and on all sorts of transport. Buses,jeeps,grain trucks, motorcycles, mini-buses. I've met some amazing people,like the man in a small village who offered me a house on his land to come teach in his village. He put me up in his home for the night,fed me 3 great meals and invited his friends over for a night of sitar playing. I've also met some real donuts,like the kids in a small village who started throwing stones at my tent when I asked them to leave and quit begging for rupees and pens. I broke down camp and walked down the road through the beautiful valley until I met a guy who offered his home as a place to stay. Rarely do you meet bad people here,but there are always other peoples friendliness make up for it.
Overall it was a great last 2 weeks up north with more great mountain views. But I'm looking forward to moving on after nearly 6 months in the Indian sub-continent. There have been so many highlights. I have only traveled a small distance physically but I have seen so much, religiously, physically, architecturally, historically and culturally.
I would really love to expand and write all the thought that are in my head and journal, but I'm on a computer that doesn't have a functioning spacebar,which makes the typing a little tedious. maybe if i get around to it I'll post some of the highlights, or Ben's plan to fix Pakistan.
All for now, Ben